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Copyright 2006
Last modified:
September 07, 2006 |
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Bywell, according to
C.W.
Steel is a place of considerable antiquity, is only 12 miles west of
Newcastle which now consists of a handful of houses with two ancient churches
and a mansion, shut in by trees on a level green heugh within the sweeping banks
of the Tyne.
Tracing its history back to medieval times, it is
known that the inhabitants of the village were mainly craftsmen working in
iron, and producing bits, stirrups, buckles and such for the horsemen and
borderers.
In those days the village was surrounded by woods
which were well stocked with red deer and the river yielded a plentiful
supply of salmon.
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It is said that at one time the village had a weir, some
10 feet high, with a mill, a salmon lock and an old bridge. Little is known of
this bridge, which fell into disrepair and ruin, suggesting that the
superstructure was probably constructed of wood.
The original stone supports were removed in 1836, on the
same day as the foundations for the new bridge were laid further down the river.
The newer version was a handsome stone structure, with five arches, each of 45
feet span, prior to which the only river crossings had been either across a ford
above the dam, or by a small ferry.
During Norman and Plantagenet times Bywell was a barony
held by the powerful Baliol family, whose chief scat was Barnard Castle. Both
were forfeited to the crown in 1294 when John Baliol, King of Scotland,
renounced English suzerainty.
Five years later, Bywell was granted to the Earl of
Richmond, from whom it passed to his niece Mary, Countess of Pembroke. On her
death in 1376 it passed to the Neville’s ‑ afterwards Earls of Westmorland ‑ who
held it until the rising of the northern earls in 1569, which brought final ruin
to their fortunes.
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It was during this period that Bywell Castle was built by
Ralph Neville in an unusual situation as it neither guards the old bridge or
takes advantage of the high ground, but stands at the end of the village.
The first reference to Bywell Castle was in 1464, when
Henry VI found refuge here while fleeing from the battlefield of Hexham. After
the execution of the Earl of Westmorland, the Crown sold Bywell Castle and Manor
to a branch of the Northumbrian house of Fenwick.
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The impressive Bywell Hall was built by James Paine in
1760 for the Fenwick family, with alterations and additions in 1817 by the
famous architect John Dobson. At the beginning of the 19th century it was
purchased by the Beaumont family, later represented by Viscount Allendale.
Bywell was considered to he a place of great
importance, and from the 13th to the 17th century it comprised one long
street of' two rows of houses extending from the castle to a point west of
its two churches.
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In 1570 there were about 15 shops in the village, the
last having disappeared in the mid1800s ‑ about the same time as the 13th
century village cross, which was relocated in a field next to the hall.
Bywell has two churches which are barely a stone's throw
apart: St Andrew's dating from the 13th century, and St Peter's, dating from
early Norman times. It is said that in the late seventh century St Wilfrid,
Bishop of Hexham, also established a church in the vicinity, but if this is so
it vanished without trace.
One story suggests that the two churches were built by
two wealthy sisters who quarrelled and then tried to outrival each other.
Another differentiates them as the Black church (signifying a connection with
the black‑robed Benedictine monks of Durham) and the White church (signifying
the white‑robed pre monastratensian canons of Blanchland).
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Both buildings are parish churches, and it is known that
from Saxon times Bywell was divided into two separate parishes, which is the
most likely reason for two churches having been built in such close proximity.
During the Middle Ages it was quite common for some villages to have several
churches within a comparatively small area.
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The churches and buildings may well have their own story
to tell, but nevertheless Bywell is still a place of considerable beauty and
tranquillity which, in its picturesque setting, is the perfect place to ponder
on these ‑ or any other mysteries.

Newburn, on the north bank of the Tyne five miles to the
west of Newcastle was originally part of Northumberland until it was
integrated into Newcastle in 1935, but in 1887 it was quite an extensive
parish with a population divided into 14 townships: Black Callerton,
Butterlaw, Dalton, East Denton, West Denton, North Dissington, Newbiggen,
Newburn, Newburn Hall, Sugley, Throckley, Walbottle, WhorIton East & West,
and Woolsington.
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Newburn, on the north bank of the Tyne five miles to the
west of Newcastle was originally part of Northumberland until it was integrated
into Newcastle in 1935, but in 1887 it was quite an extensive parish with a
population divided into 14 townships: Black Callerton, Butterlaw, Dalton, East
Denton, West Denton, North Dissington, Newbiggen, Newburn, Newburn Hall, Sugley,
Throckley, Walbottle, WhorIton East & West, and Woolsington.
Newburn was first mentioned in the pages of history
in 1071, when it was the residence of the Saxon Copsi, whom William the
Conqueror had raised to the Earldom of Northumberland.
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It was anciently a borough, the manor of which was given
by King John to Robert, the son of Roger de Clavering, Baron of Warkworth.
John, the last Lord Clavering, granted the reversion of it to the Crown,
when Edward 111 gave it to Henry, Lord Percy, from whom it descended to the
Duke of Northumberland.
The Scots possessed the advantages of numbers, discipline
and position in a battle between the army of Charles 1 and the Scots at
Newburn and their victory enabled them to take control of Northumberland and
Durham.
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Newburn church, which was used to house Scottish cannon
during the battle occupies a commanding position on an incline, there appears
to be no documentary evidence of its foundation, but it is certain that Newburn
had its church in Saxon times and it was rebuilt in the Norman style after a
fire recorded in 1071.
The need of the aged and poor were not overlooked, as in
1870 a suite of 12 almshouses which and still stand to this day, were built
by Hugh Taylor Esq. at a cost of £3,000. In addition to being free homes the
residents of 60 years of age or older received a weekly allowance.
The village also possessed its own working men's club and institute, erected
in 1884 at the sole expense of Thomas Spencer Esq.
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Furnished by his two
brothers for the use of the members it had baths in the basement with
lavatories and other facilities; on the first floor were recreation rooms
and a library, and above that a large hall for entertainment and lectures,
having since been converted into the Valley View retirement home.
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One of the chief industries at Newburn was founded in
1810 with Spencer & Sons, otherwise known as Spencer's steelworks which
operated for 119 years and supplied all the original requirements of Stephenson
and Hawthorn for the construction of the early rail locomotives and later
supplied many of the shipyards.
In the decline of the 1900s, Spencer 's steelworks faced
a battle of their own and were eventually forced into voluntary liquidation
before finally closing in 1929, with loss of more than 2,000 jobs.
Newburn has undergone many changes over the Years but it
still retains its own identity, more like a rural community with a charm of its
own.
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