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Last modified: September 07, 2006

 

Bywell & Newburn on Tyne

by Local Historian Charlie Steel
Bywell, according to C.W. Steel is a place of considerable antiquity, is only 12 miles west of Newcastle which now consists of a handful of houses with two ancient churches and a mansion, shut in by trees on a level green heugh within the sweeping banks of the Tyne.
Tracing its history back to medieval times, it is known that the inhabitants of the village were mainly craftsmen working in iron, and producing bits, stir­rups, buckles and such for the horsemen and border­ers.
In those days the village was surrounded by woods which were well stocked with red deer and the river yielded a plen­tiful supply of salmon.
It is said that at one time the village had a weir, some 10 feet high, with a mill, a salmon lock and an old bridge. Little is known of this bridge, which fell into dis­repair and ruin, suggesting that the superstructure was probably constructed of wood.
The original stone supports were removed in 1836, on the same day as the foundations for the new bridge were laid further down the river. The newer version was a handsome stone structure, with five arches, each of 45 feet span, prior to which the only river crossings had been either across a ford above the dam, or by a small ferry.
During Norman and Plantagenet times Bywell was a barony held by the powerful Baliol family, whose chief scat was Barnard Castle. Both were forfeited to the crown in 1294 when John Baliol, King of Scotland, renounced English suzerainty.
Five years later, Bywell was granted to the Earl of Richmond, from whom it passed to his niece Mary, Countess of Pembroke. On her death in 1376 it passed to the Neville’s ‑ afterwards Earls of Westmorland ‑ who held it until the rising of the northern earls in 1569, which brought final ruin to their fortunes.

It was during this period that Bywell Castle was built by Ralph Neville in an unusual situation as it nei­ther guards the old bridge or takes advantage of the high ground, but stands at the end of the village.
The first reference to Bywell Castle was in 1464, when Henry VI found refuge here while fleeing from the battlefield of Hexham. After the execution of the Earl of Westmorland, the Crown sold Bywell Castle and Manor to a branch of the Northumbrian house of Fenwick.

The impressive Bywell Hall was built by James Paine in 1760 for the Fenwick family, with alterations and additions in 1817 by the famous architect John Dobson. At the beginning of the 19th century it was purchased by the Beaumont family, later represented by Viscount Allendale.
Bywell was considered to he a place of great importance, and from the 13th to the 17th century it comprised one long street of' two rows of houses extending from the castle to a point west of its two churches.
In 1570 there were about 15 shops in the village, the last having disappeared in the mid­1800s ‑ about the same time as the 13th century village cross, which was relocated in a field next to the hall.
Bywell has two churches which are barely a stone's throw apart: St Andrew's dating from the 13th century, and St Peter's, dating from early Nor­man times. It is said that in the late seventh century St Wilfrid, Bishop of Hexham, also established a church in the vicinity, but if this is so it vanished without trace.
One story suggests that the two churches were built by two wealthy sisters who quarrelled and then tried to outrival each other. Another differen­tiates them as the Black church (signifying a connection with the black‑robed Benedictine monks of Durham) and the White church (signifying the white‑robed pre monastratensian canons of Blanchland).

Both buildings are parish churches, and it is known that from Saxon times Bywell was divided into two separate parishes, which is the most likely reason for two churches having been built in such close proximity. Dur­ing the Middle Ages it was quite common for some vil­lages to have several churches within a comparatively small area.
The churches and buildings may well have their own story to tell, but nevertheless Bywell is still a place of considerable beauty and tranquillity which, in its picturesque setting, is the perfect place to ponder on these ‑ or any other mysteries.

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Newburn on Tyne

Newburn, on the north bank of the Tyne five miles to the west of Newcastle was originally part of Northumberland until it was integrated into Newcastle in 1935, but in 1887 it was quite an extensive parish with a population divided into 14 townships: Black Callerton, Butterlaw, Dalton, East Denton, West Denton, North Dissington, Newbiggen, Newburn, Newburn Hall, Sugley, Throckley, Walbottle, WhorIton East & West, and Woolsington.

Newburn, on the north bank of the Tyne five miles to the west of Newcastle was originally part of Northumberland until it was integrated into Newcastle in 1935, but in 1887 it was quite an extensive parish with a population divided into 14 townships: Black Callerton, Butterlaw, Dalton, East Denton, West Denton, North Dissington, Newbiggen, Newburn, Newburn Hall, Sugley, Throckley, Walbottle, WhorIton East & West, and Woolsington.
Newburn  was first mentioned in the pages of history in 1071, when it was the residence of the Saxon Copsi, whom  William the Conqueror had raised to the Earldom of Northumberland.

It was anciently a borough, the manor of which was given by King John to Robert, the son of Roger de Clavering, Baron of Warkworth. John, the last Lord Clavering, granted the reversion of it to the Crown, when Edward 111 gave it to Henry, Lord Percy, from whom it descended to the Duke of Northumberland.
The Scots possessed the advantages of numbers, disci­pline and position in a battle between the army of Charles 1 and the Scots at Newburn and their victory enabled them to take control of Northumberland and Durham.
Newburn church, which was used to house Scottish cannon during the battle occupies a command­ing position on an incline, there appears to be no documentary evidence of its foundation, but it is certain that Newburn had its church in Saxon times and it was rebuilt in the Norman style after a fire recorded in 1071.
The need of the aged and poor were not over­looked, as in 1870 a suite of 12 almshouses which and still stand to this day, were built by Hugh Taylor Esq. at a cost of £3,000. In addition to being free homes the residents of 60 years of age or older received a weekly allowance.
The village also possessed its own working men's club and institute, erected in 1884 at the sole expense of Thomas Spencer Esq.

Furnished by his two brothers for the use of the members it had baths in the basement with lavatories and other facilities; on the first floor were recreation rooms and a library, and above that a large hall for entertainment and lectures, having since been converted into the Valley View retirement home.
One of the chief industries at Newburn was founded in 1810 with Spencer & Sons, otherwise known as Spencer's steel­works which operated for 119 years and supplied all the original requirements of Stephenson and Hawthorn for the construction of the early rail locomotives and later supplied many of the shipyards.
In the decline of the 1900s, Spencer 's steelworks faced a battle of their own and were eventually forced into volun­tary liquidation before finally closing in 1929, with loss of more than 2,000 jobs.
Newburn has undergone many changes over the Years but it still retains its own identity, more like a rural community with a charm of its own.

 

 

 

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